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By Jennifer Churchill (ed.)

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Attaching the top and bottom pieces to the carcase is easy if your case is square and your joints are flush. Before you attach the top and bottom, check their fit against the carcase itself. You want a tight joint at the front and the sides. If you don’t get a seamless fit with only hand pressure, you’ll need to tweak the carcase until you do. Relying on your clamps to close an imperfect joint is asking for trouble. Sometimes this process takes a bit of detective work to figure out what’s wrong.

If you use a router (one that is either fixedbased or plunge-style) that requires you to adjust the height of the bit from below the table, you may find that making fine adjustments to your bit’s height is a problem. We’ll cover this process later in this article. But if you have one of the so-called router-lift mechanisms, or if you own a newer router that allows you to adjust the bit height from above the table (which makes these fine adjustments a snap), you’ll find very precise height adjustments a breeze.

Height of the blade to slightly less than 7⁄ 16". Make a test cut and check the depth of cut. In setting the blade height, sneak up on the final height by adjusting upwards in small increments. You’ll find that moving the blade down is not very precise – a function of the way a table saw works. When the blade height’s set accurately, lock the adjustment, then make the groove on the inside edges of the stiles and rails. To form the tenons you need to install a stack dado set that will cut at least 1⁄ 2".

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Authentic Arts & Crafts Furniture Projects by Jennifer Churchill (ed.)

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